Gilles Goujon
Monday 25 October 2010
A seeker of fl avors
He is the most recent 3-star in the 2010 Michelin Guide. And certainly the most atypical. Far from palaces, from grand cuisine’s conventions, he made the choice 18 years ago to settle in this village of 130 inhabitants deep in the Audois garrigue to invent a virtuostic cuisine that has nothing to do with chemistry or lab techniques. Welcome to the restaurant of Gilles Goujon, at the Auberge du Vieux Puits!
The road that leads to the Auberge du Vieux Puits is without doubt the best clue to understanding the art of Gilles Goujon. You’ll see the intense luminosity of the southern landscape, bracing scents of the garrigue, vertical cliffs, clear waters where dazzling trout sparkle, hairpin turns and winding roads that impose a certain slowness. The cost of happiness! As with the restaurants of Michel Bras or Régis Marcon, you don’t arrive in Fontjoncouse, some 60 km from Perpignan, by accident. The fi rst time Gilles and Marie-Christine came here, 18 years ago, they near missed it. But the surroundings were so beautiful, the offer made to them so tempting that they ended up reaching their goal. The Auberge du Vieux Puits, bankrupt for the 3rd time, was available. And there began the challenge for Gilles Goujon, with the help of his wife, his friends and his team. The fi rst two years were awful. What could be worse than empty tables, unused preparations and delicate dishes that are tossed out? Light fi nally shone through in 1995 thanks to a local television piece, then in 1996 when someone from Michelin came in. A few months later, a fi rst star sparkled, which attracted the gourmet clientele of the region. And meanwhile, Gilles, working like mad, managed to win the title of Meilleur Ouvrier de France and established the basis of what would come to be his style. His path was then on target for realizing a promise Gilles made to his mother 30 years earlier: “One day I’ll be a 3-star chef.”
« THE DESIRE TO OUTDO ONESELF, TO SEEK NEW CHALLENGES »
Having soldiered through the ranks for Roger Vergé at the Moulin de Mougins, for Jean- Paul Passédat at the Petit Nice in Marseille, and for Gérard Clor in Carry-le-Rouet, Gilles immediately gained notice for his creativity. I spent my time drawing everything that came to mind. Ideas for dishes, plating, sugar or caramel constructions to add life to a plate. “My time at Roger Vergé allowed me to discover incredible fl avors. Ever since, that`s the type of savory experience that I`m always exploring, continually cultivating. Because that’s what is at the heart of a huge gastronomical culture that we can be proud of. Because it comes from an immense heritage of products and recipes. Here, in the heart of the Audois garrigue, I am unceasing in my search for the farmer, the breeder, or the wine grower who will furnish me with the fi nest fruits and vegetables, the best meat, wines and cheeses with unique personality. I am proud to work in this ancient Cathar land that inspires elevation, greatness, courage, the desire to outdo oneself, to seek new challenges. I always want to do better, without forgetting that cooking`s roots are in the cultures of the people. That’s why, in my creations, I like to pay homage to such dishes as couscous, Moroccan pastille, fi sh soup, called bullinada here, fréginat that was cooked in the Aude region the day a pig was slaughtered, or blanquette…”
HIS PASSION: FOR ONE DAY, MAKING HIS GUESTS’ DREAMS COME TRUE
In his quest for exceptional products, Gilles of course gives special attention to foie gras. “I love working with this product because it demands a lot of attention, special care from those who produce and prepare it for us chefs. That’s how one comes about getting this fi nesse in taste, this delicate and unctuous texture. With foie gras, I happily go for simplicity. I like it lightly golden on the outside, nearly raw on the inside. And to do this, I must have a foie of the highest quality. I’ve chosen the Ultra Fresh from the Rougié Prestige line. I only take entire lobes ``grande cuisine`` that I can then size to my needs. Right now on my menu, I propose a pan-fried lobe accompanied by a rhubarb tart inside a meringue and a strawberry in a balsamic reduction. I serve it whole and then have it sliced in the dining room in front of the customer.`` Judging from the smile on Gilles Goujon’s face, we see that what he enjoys most is, for a day, making his guests’ dreams come true.
n / Internet Agency